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[[Image: IMG_1377.JPG]](the referenced community page) The keys that come with standard integrated locks are so ugly. The one I trust the most (from around ten different lock/key sets across various devices) has “BDSM” stamped on it, which doesn’t quite match our dynamic or my outwardly vanilla lifestyle. She currently wears this unattractive key on a long chain where no one can see what’s dangling at the end. A couple of years ago, I gave her a symbolic silver Tiffany-style key that she sometimes wears on a shorter, more visible chain. My goal was to present my wife (KH) with a piece of jewelry rather than just a tool—a key she could wear proudly on either a long or short chain.
There aren’t many choices out there. However, when I discovered the 3D-printed keys that JosieLynn from Cherry Keeper had put up for sale, I decided to make my own at a more reasonable price. One common complaint about these 3D-printed keys is that they must be cut specifically for your lock. Many people have struggled to find locksmiths with the older “slot cutter machine” needed for this job. Since I didn’t really want to deal with finding such specialists and am fairly handy, I did some Google research and decided to DIY it myself.
I’m documenting my process here in case anyone else wants to jump in and replicate parts of it. I’ve just finished the key and plan to give it to her soon during our next date night.
Here are the main items I bought: Total cost = $119 The Key: ($78) Purchased as “fine detail polished silver” for $67.95 (all costs in USD), plus handling, shipping, etc., totaling $78.
The Lock: ($25) Since I was investing so much in this project, I thought it worthwhile to start with the best lock cylinder available that I knew of.
The Diamonds: ($9 for a dozen) Shhh—it’s actually CZ stones (one on each side). I had to buy two sizes to see which looked better, but in the end, 2.0 mm worked perfectly and are quite easy to find. I found name-brand Swarovski CZ at Otto Frei, a jewelry supply store open to the public. The only catch is their $25 minimum order. It wasn’t an issue for me since I also picked up some small tools, but strictly speaking for this DIY breakdown, I’m only listing the cost of the CZs and shipping. You could easily source these elsewhere if you shop around.
The Bail: ($7) I just wanted a simple design to keep the key facing forward.
I already had the files and buffing wheel, so I didn’t need anything else. If you don’t have these tools, you might need to buy some small files from a hardware supply store along with a buffing wheel/compound for use on a Dremel-type tool. In my opinion, this is only a medium-difficulty project for anyone who is reasonably competent at home DIY. However, misfiling the key blank could cost you $78.
So here goes: The main part of this DIY is hand-filing the key. I used the new key from the Burg Wachter lock as a reference. After googling methods for copying keys and trying a couple out, I settled on using carbon and tape. Light a candle, hold the key in some pliers (it gets hot), and hover it above the flame until it turns black: [[Image: IMG_1296.JPG]](the referenced community page) Then take a piece of clear packing tape and press it onto the key. Lift the tape off, and you have an impression of the original key’s cuts: [[Image: IMG_1299.JPG]](the referenced community page) Do some fine trimming on the tape, then place it on your new key blank: [[Image: IMG_1300.JPG]](the referenced community page) I used a digital caliper to double-check measurements, positioned the tape where I wanted it, and clamped the key in a vice for filing. The file set I used looks like this: [[Image: IMG_1309.JPG]](the referenced community page) The silver is very soft and files away quickly. After just a short while, it looked like this: [[Image: IMG_1306.JPG]](the referenced community page) A few more minutes of filing later, it looked almost done (see below): [[Image: IMG_1307.JPG]](the referenced community page) I did a bit more filing and started inserting the key into the lock; soon enough, it began working. I finished up by sanding the edges smooth: [[Image: IMG_1311.JPG]](the referenced community page) Here is what it looked like after sanding in close-up (I also filed down two old-fashioned-looking tabs to give them a more worn, unique appearance): [[Image: IMG_1313.JPG]](the referenced community page) At this point, the key was functionally complete. I buffed the entire thing on a buffing wheel with an appropriate compound for soft metals, which smoothed everything out. Be careful here; because silver is so soft, I unknowingly removed a little metal from the working part during buffing, making it slightly harder to turn, though it still operates fine.
I researched how to glue the CZ stones. While there are special glues available, evidence suggests you can use instant glue (cyanoacrylate) as well. Since I had some lying around and extra stones in case any fell out, I used that method. I put a small dab of glue on a piece of paper, held one stone with tweezers, dipped it lightly into the glue, and pressed it into place. After cleaning the key with silver polish, it was all done (and here is the picture at the top): [[Image: IMG_1376.JPG]](the referenced community page)
I hope this inspires someone else to take on a similar project for their KH. I’d be happy to answer any questions about my process.