- Posts
- 3
- Joined
- Jan 1970
I keep trying to get my CB3K just right, even when I have other things to attend to! Check out my album for the most recent updates on my CB3K. The two main problems I’m tackling are: 1) significant size fluctuation from flaccid to semi-erect (turtlenecking), and 2) preventing “pull-out”. Regarding #1, I purchased a black-only CB3K cage and used a jeweler’s saw to make cuts just in front of the base and another just behind the head, removing the middle tube section. Then I used epoxy putty to glue the two pieces back together. Since the holes aren’t perfectly aligned, putty is needed to fill the gaps. I applied it in two layers: first to set alignment and fill gaps. After hardening, I ground down excess material, then added a second layer carefully ensuring smooth surfaces. Once that hardened, I smoothed it further and painted the exterior with black enamel from the hobby shop. I left the inside unpainted because I wasn’t certain if paint rubbing against my penis would cause issues. Although an epoxy surface might be just as good? I worried the cage might become too short, but it isn’t. My penis can still retract toward the tip, and getting a full erection at night while wearing it is not too uncomfortable, though there is slightly more pull. To keep the penile tip secured, I’ve used a small chain before, but I prefer firmer fixation. I bought some chrome-covered wire coat hangers from WalMart for this part. These hanger wires match my 8 ga PA piercing size. I wanted to shape them so they hold my PA piercing within the tube and stay in place via the spacer when everything is locked, eliminating the need for a second lock at the tube tip. It turns out such intricate bends are difficult with one continuous piece of wire, so I split it into three segments. The first segment sits inside the spacer itself. I cut a groove to fit the wire, made a 90-degree bend, and trimmed excess length. The second segment wraps around the side of the tube entrance. This just required finding rigid tubing at home suitable for bending the hanger wire around it. Our elliptical trainer handle worked perfectly. The trickiest part is the piece inside the tube itself. It curves into the tube, bends upward at my PA hole location, then gently arcs toward the tube tip. I cut the length so it reaches the end without protruding. The pieces are bonded with “JB Weld”. Roughening surfaces where glue goes ensures a strong bond. I taped each piece onto the CB3K while applying the weld, being careful to keep adhesive off the cage itself. Once hardened, you can remove it and apply another layer to areas missed initially. Last issue: rough spots on the PA section. The wire is stiff, and adjusting its shape caused plier marks on the smooth surface. I tried polishing them out, but this removed some of the coat hanger’s coating, revealing copper color visible in photos. Unsure what metal it is, I doubt I want bare metal against my urethra for long periods. So, I covered exposed areas with clear nail polish, applying multiple coats and buffing the final one with my Dremel tool. So far, less than a day of wear has been promising. I experience some tip pain as it shifts size and slides along the PA component; a bit of vaseline helps. Any suggestions for covering exposed metal? Clear nail polish turned slightly cloudy overnight but cleared upon drying. Also, be careful not to pinch skin between wire and plastic during assembly. Overall, satisfied with results so far. See my album for photos.